Not yet, I plan on asking him all the details tomorrow though.

Sucks to hear, I really hope you get everything figured out. Seeing your truck was one of the reasons I got mine lol.

Back to the dental work, I'm hoping my benefits kick in soon so I can recoup some of my money... I've already found a great deal on a leveling kit and some BFG a/ts lol.

Sean

Nice looking truck for sure. Like what you have done with it.

Yeah me too. If I have to get another throttle body is just 150 on eBay so its not a HUGE deal but thats money I'd rather spend on gas lol.

Turns out I was exactly right, he took it off and cleaned it yesterday. Codes are gone, its in line to get inspected today! Woooo!

yea i just did plugs in my 150 to the tune of $600 at the dealer, $30 a plug....

Trucks home. Still not starting right though, fml. Must be an injector of its not the plugs or the COP.

I'm glad your truck is back home!

A single injector would give you a miss, slow starting might be a fuel pressure problem.

What can I do to check that? Truck runs great after it starts, its just starting that is a issue.

I hear you on the gas lol. I try to drive my truck some what conservative, but I love the sound of the V8!

Hopefully you get everything figured out and running properly. Vehicles can be such a money pit...

Sean

Try turning the key to the "run" position, wait a couple seconds, then back off, then go to the "start" position and see how it starts.

This will give the fuel pump a little more time to build up fuel pressure.

Tried that before, doesn't make a difference. Even doing it multiple times doesn't change anything.

Bet you're happy you have it back.

Is it still only the hard starts when the truck is hot?
Mine still does it on rare occasions. I'm sure that one (or some) of the injectors leaks down into the cylinder after it is shut off sometimes. When I go to start it hot, I don't let the fuel pump prime, I just turn it right to start and it fires right up. I use to always let the fuel pump prime even it the truck was hot and that's when I had problems, seems that the cylinders get flooded.
If I forget and let it prime, and it tries to start and stumbles I just jump right back to start and it fires up. Too much fuel in there. :dunno:

If it's a flooding issue, try starting with a WOT. The injectors won't fire with a WOT at start.

No its the opposite lol. It fires up fine if its hot, when its cold it takes a while to start.

It does it randomly, like this morning its 40*F and it started perfect on a cold engine. Idk

glad to hear you got the truck back Trent! Sorry about the starting issue though... I was having alot of issues with my truck a while back, would start sometimes, others it wouldnt.. I was honestly scared to take it anywhere because i wasnt sure it was going to start.. turns out it was just a bad battery. $150 later, its got the biggest battery the Ford dealership had lol.

Apparantly these trucks come from the factory with a battery that doesnt have enough CCA to last very long..


on another note, i tried getting the local dealership to change my plugs when i first got the truck and they said they wouldnt do it until 100K. the guy swore that they are fine until then..

Sucks about your plugs man. Seems to be hit or miss, I guess I got lucky on mine that none broke. At least you don't have to worry about plugs now. I don't think I saw you mention it, but what plugs did you go with?

I'm interested to know what the current issue is with your truck hard starting once in a while

Interesting Eric!

How many miles did your plugs have on them when you changed them? Did you use the procedure in the TSBs to change them?
What plugs did you use? Darkstar_420 has found that Ford came out with a new plug (SP-515) to replace the SP-507 to help with the seize / breakage problem. I'm trying to find out what's different about these plugs now.

Plugs were changed at 76,000 with the motorcraft plugs from the dealer. Dealer said these plugs were the new design, although they looked exactly the same in every form to the old ones. I wish I would have remembered to get a picture to compare them to, or even save a box so I had the part number, unfortunately I do not.

I had a buddy do the plugs in his garage, we didn't use the TSB and none of them broke. Took a few hours. Really just seemed like luck of the draw, I was expecting the worst

I replaced the battery 3 months ago with the biggest Gold battery AutoZone said would fit because the stock one died.

I just went back with the Motorcraft, I think the SP-507 but I'm not sure.

That's funny my battery died about the same time, I went with a napa battery.

Yeah I just had a 40% off coupon for Autozone, thats the only reason I shop there. I wish we had a good Napa here. The one up at my fiances school is awesome, locally owned by some very knowledgeable guys. The one here is run by morons lol

the ones i got the shield was a bit shorter looking, more of the electrode sticking out, plus the deal said the shield was narrower

Theres also the champion 1 piece design. I believe the part number is 7989. They are also made with the "J" electrode design so they are easier to gap.

Sean

problem is they dont last

x2, when I was researching my plug situation that was the biggest gripe about the champions

x3, thats why I didn't go with them when I changed mine

Well, maybe its just my ignorance to the subject, but wouldn't it be better to have plugs that can be removed without a special tool that need to be replaced more often than ones that break and you need a special tool?

Maybe its the frequency at which they fail? Sorry if these questions seem stupid and new, but I just want to learn as much as I can about these trucks.

Thanks,
Sean

Honestly I really didn't look into them very much. Just talked to a few people that said they didnt choose them and have seen a few things posted online bad about them compared to the Motorcrafts so I didn't bother with them.

Update on the truck, its been running great. Same as before really which pisses me off but oh well.

Start issue I feel is still there but I've started turning the key and waiting a few seconds to let the fuel pump come on and it starts much much faster that way. Just one of those things I guess, not sure why it does that though.

Trent, are you saying what I suggested in post #51 helps your starting problem?

There is a check valve somewhere (maybe inlet of the fuel pump) that should keep fuel from draining back into the tank. This might be your problem.

Yeah it did, thanks for the suggestion. When its really cold it still struggles though, I know its not the battery since its only a few months old.

I think mine leaks down into the cylinders so we have the opposite issue. lol
Mine always fires up though, doesn't give me any indication that it's going to leave me stranded. I'm not about to go tearing into stuff because turning the key right to start when it's hot works fine. Maybe yours is something easier though, if it's just bleeding the fuel pressure off through a bad check valve or something. I don't have a good manual to look at.

Yeah mine hasn't not started yet, its just taken 5+ seconds of cranking to fire up.

glad you got the truck back and running bud.

Fuel Filter?

Changed 3 months ago, only has about 500 miles through it