VVT Solanoid Nightmare
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Joined: May 2025
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VVT Solanoid Nightmare
Good afternoon, Gents,
Running into a big issue. I recently bought a 2010 Ford F150 4.6L 3V. This truck has been a pain in my mass. Issues left and right. Here is a little back story and history leading up to the point of which I'm calling for your knowledge and help.
Originally, I got a P0345 code. I chased this code by replacing camshaft position sensors, that didn't work. I recently replaced the VVT Solenoids, Coil Packs, Spark plugs, and valve covers. After I replaced the valve covers, I've had to chase leaks.
After driving from FL to GA I got home and noticed I was getting an oil leak from the PCV Valve connection on the new (china made) valve covers. its leaking from there...I deemed the valve covers would a DOA. So, due to me needing the valve covers in a timely manner, I decided just to pick up some Dorman ones from AutoZone. After installing both, at idle my valve covers were fine...no leak. However, after a drive the driver's side is dumping oil.
I took the valve cover back off; gasket was the issue. A bolt had messed the valve gasket up. After installing I noticed I was getting misfire codes. I checked the VVT plug, and it had a little bit of oil inside the plug of the VVT Solenoid. I thought cool.
I got a defective VVT solenoid sold to me. So, I replaced it again and yet again its happening but more than before but not from the VVT Solenoid's plug this time it's coming from the new valve covers seal and more oil than last time. Enough to drip down the valve cover now. I'm no longer getting that P0345 code. Now my truck is shaking and losing power, seems to only go crazy and misfire and dump oil when I get on the highway.
Regular street driving is usually fine. I also already replaced both camshaft position sensors... Crankcase pressure issue? I'm hearing a hissing sound coming from the air intake, and I pulled the oil cap off while it was idling...I heard a sucking sound when I first pulled the cap off and nothing else after that, very light sucking. I read online that it could be the seals of the VVT....but I've replaced the valve covers (both came with new vvt gaskets already installed on valve covers) and gaskets twice on this side. Now this is happening on the Dorman one. This is all taking place on the driver's side.
My truck is now throwing the following codes:
P0020 (a problem with the bank 2 intake camshaft position actuator circuit)
P0300 (random or multiple cylinder misfire)
P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire)
P0306 (Cylinder 6 misfire)
P0307 (Cylinder 7 misfire)
P0308 (cylinder 8 misfire)
P0341 (camshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance issue)
P0346 (indicates a problem with the camshaft position sensor A (CMP) circuit range/performance on bank 2)
P0460 (fuel level sensor circuit malfunction)
I've looked at the wires I don't see any damage or odd-looking parts of the wire then there was before. This truck was ran-through by the previous owner...I wouldn't be surprised if wiring was an issue. It looks like the wiring has some parts where there is electrical tape falling off.... not sure if its OEM electrical tape or.... I've tried to find a diagram of the cables to see if I can get eyes on, on every single cable. If I unplug the new VVT solenoid that was leaking then the truck goes back to normal idle. However, if I plug it in, then the truck starts to misfire. I've drove to work and back today with the plug to the VVT solenoid on the driver side un-plugged...no leak, great idle, and I feel like I've got more power than I have had sense I bought the truck. Which makes me wonder if I have ever even felt the full potential of this truck...I'm still stuck on what this could be.I took a multimeter and went to testing.
I tested ohms on the new VVT Solenoid, it came back good. So, the VVT Solenoid is not bad. I then tested the voltage on the connecter on the harness, I got 11.4V with the key in the "ON" position and engine off. From my research and understanding that's low. So, I checked the other VVT Solenoid too sense I am not getting a code for that side, and it was the same. I then checked the ground voltage which to my understanding should be sitting at 0V, if not negative.
I was getting roughly 6-8V. I then wanted to double check the ground using ohms, so I did the continuity check. I'm getting a hardcore spike of 197 Ohms on the ground on both sides VVT solenoid connectors. this means I have a bad ground somewhere, correct? I'm not going to lie, I have never delt with electrical when it comes to vehicles, and I don't fully understand it.
My uncle that worked for Ford as a mechanic for some years said I need to check the connector and do a load test..however I'm not sure how to do that. So, I'm kind of stuck in between paying someone, replacing the whole harness and borderline guessing with parts, figuring the ground out and fixing it, or leaving the VVT solenoid unplugged and deal with the CEL (which will be a nightmare for me because I refuse to keep a CEL on.)
Thoughts?
Running into a big issue. I recently bought a 2010 Ford F150 4.6L 3V. This truck has been a pain in my mass. Issues left and right. Here is a little back story and history leading up to the point of which I'm calling for your knowledge and help.
Originally, I got a P0345 code. I chased this code by replacing camshaft position sensors, that didn't work. I recently replaced the VVT Solenoids, Coil Packs, Spark plugs, and valve covers. After I replaced the valve covers, I've had to chase leaks.
After driving from FL to GA I got home and noticed I was getting an oil leak from the PCV Valve connection on the new (china made) valve covers. its leaking from there...I deemed the valve covers would a DOA. So, due to me needing the valve covers in a timely manner, I decided just to pick up some Dorman ones from AutoZone. After installing both, at idle my valve covers were fine...no leak. However, after a drive the driver's side is dumping oil.
I took the valve cover back off; gasket was the issue. A bolt had messed the valve gasket up. After installing I noticed I was getting misfire codes. I checked the VVT plug, and it had a little bit of oil inside the plug of the VVT Solenoid. I thought cool.
I got a defective VVT solenoid sold to me. So, I replaced it again and yet again its happening but more than before but not from the VVT Solenoid's plug this time it's coming from the new valve covers seal and more oil than last time. Enough to drip down the valve cover now. I'm no longer getting that P0345 code. Now my truck is shaking and losing power, seems to only go crazy and misfire and dump oil when I get on the highway.
Regular street driving is usually fine. I also already replaced both camshaft position sensors... Crankcase pressure issue? I'm hearing a hissing sound coming from the air intake, and I pulled the oil cap off while it was idling...I heard a sucking sound when I first pulled the cap off and nothing else after that, very light sucking. I read online that it could be the seals of the VVT....but I've replaced the valve covers (both came with new vvt gaskets already installed on valve covers) and gaskets twice on this side. Now this is happening on the Dorman one. This is all taking place on the driver's side.
My truck is now throwing the following codes:
P0020 (a problem with the bank 2 intake camshaft position actuator circuit)
P0300 (random or multiple cylinder misfire)
P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire)
P0306 (Cylinder 6 misfire)
P0307 (Cylinder 7 misfire)
P0308 (cylinder 8 misfire)
P0341 (camshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance issue)
P0346 (indicates a problem with the camshaft position sensor A (CMP) circuit range/performance on bank 2)
P0460 (fuel level sensor circuit malfunction)
I've looked at the wires I don't see any damage or odd-looking parts of the wire then there was before. This truck was ran-through by the previous owner...I wouldn't be surprised if wiring was an issue. It looks like the wiring has some parts where there is electrical tape falling off.... not sure if its OEM electrical tape or.... I've tried to find a diagram of the cables to see if I can get eyes on, on every single cable. If I unplug the new VVT solenoid that was leaking then the truck goes back to normal idle. However, if I plug it in, then the truck starts to misfire. I've drove to work and back today with the plug to the VVT solenoid on the driver side un-plugged...no leak, great idle, and I feel like I've got more power than I have had sense I bought the truck. Which makes me wonder if I have ever even felt the full potential of this truck...I'm still stuck on what this could be.I took a multimeter and went to testing.
I tested ohms on the new VVT Solenoid, it came back good. So, the VVT Solenoid is not bad. I then tested the voltage on the connecter on the harness, I got 11.4V with the key in the "ON" position and engine off. From my research and understanding that's low. So, I checked the other VVT Solenoid too sense I am not getting a code for that side, and it was the same. I then checked the ground voltage which to my understanding should be sitting at 0V, if not negative.
I was getting roughly 6-8V. I then wanted to double check the ground using ohms, so I did the continuity check. I'm getting a hardcore spike of 197 Ohms on the ground on both sides VVT solenoid connectors. this means I have a bad ground somewhere, correct? I'm not going to lie, I have never delt with electrical when it comes to vehicles, and I don't fully understand it.
My uncle that worked for Ford as a mechanic for some years said I need to check the connector and do a load test..however I'm not sure how to do that. So, I'm kind of stuck in between paying someone, replacing the whole harness and borderline guessing with parts, figuring the ground out and fixing it, or leaving the VVT solenoid unplugged and deal with the CEL (which will be a nightmare for me because I refuse to keep a CEL on.)
Thoughts?
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