5.4L Spark Plugs Seizing Problems
I took my truck to the dealer this morning to get the keyless entry code for it. While there, I asked the service guy about changing the spark plugs on the 5.4L. He said they have had one instance where they had to pull the head from a broken spark plug. He said Ford now recommends changing the plugs on the 5.4L at 60K miles due to the plug GND shield seizing to the head. Mine has 75K now, so I've over due!
Trent, did you get your truck back? |
Not yet, calling the guy tomorrow. University Ford North quoted me $400 for the plugs and then extra for every one that breaks. The dealership in Raleigh quoted someone on F150Online less than that, he posted a thread about it over there.
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Originally Posted by Trent
(Post 308)
Not yet, calling the guy tomorrow. University Ford North quoted me $400 for the plugs and then extra for every one that breaks. The dealership in Raleigh quoted someone on F150Online less than that, he posted a thread about it over there.
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So for replacements, they're still installing the same plug design though, right?
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Bet you'll be glad for it to be done. Sounds like a pain.
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Originally Posted by Brian
(Post 316)
So for replacements, they're still installing the same plug design though, right?
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Anything that gets hot and cold should have anti-seize on it. The only time I had plugs break off was on a 84 Fiero. I was able to get the threaded part out with a EZout. Is this a option in this case? Might also want to spray some penetrating oil around the plugs before hand. Start a week before you try to remove them.
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I changed mine at 70k, pull it in warm and hit them with the 3/8 impact, didn't break any.
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Here is the TSB on the plugs.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jm...sb08-07-06.pdf I went to change mine, following the TSB, and thought I was going to be one of the lucky ones. Yeah right.....not. All 8 broke. I bought the removal tool(Lisle, it`s better than the Snap-on or the rest and costs less) but was soo pissed I justed towwed it up to Zimmernens in ST.Charles,IL. The mannager is a good friend. Still cost me $650 and I had already bought the plugs. This was at 65K miles and there is a lawsuit pending. |
Good lord, $650 to change plugs? Ouch. I'm a firm believer in the fact that even if they say good for 70k miles, it's not. I change my plugs once a year.
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Originally Posted by bucky919
(Post 347)
I changed mine at 70k, pull it in warm and hit them with the 3/8 impact, didn't break any.
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Originally Posted by Beytill
(Post 349)
Here is the TSB on the plugs.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jm...sb08-07-06.pdf I went to change mine, following the TSB, and thought I was going to be one of the lucky ones. Yeah right.....not. All 8 broke. I bought the removal tool(Lisle, it`s better than the Snap-on or the rest and costs less) but was soo pissed I justed towwed it up to Zimmernens in ST.Charles,IL. The mannager is a good friend. Still cost me $650 and I had already bought the plugs. This was at 65K miles and there is a lawsuit pending. |
I could make a small fortune taking advantage of people. Had a 72 Corvette in my shop over summer. He was told he had a blown head gasket, see, it's dripping coolant. Sure, I'll take a look. I found coolant on the lower intake manifold. Not a head gasket. I found all but one bolt holding the LIM down was so loose I could turn by hand. I torqued them down, leak stopped. Told the guy $20. He was happy as could be, the other shop told him $500.
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Haha you sound just like me. My first 3 came out great and then I broke 3 in a row so I stopped and had it towed to a friend of my cousins shop. I'm not sure what to do. Trent, you and Robin had bad luck, Robin broke all 8 plugs following the TSB. However, Ramsey and Zach didn't follow the TSB, and didn't break any. With 75K miles, I do know I have to do something before too many more miles are racked up. |
My theory on the whole deal...
Have you ever tried to turn a rusty bolt out of a spring shackle? They have those really nice metal sleeves that rust to the bolt. Well you initially start to turn that and you think all is well. Its loose etc. You continue to turn it and you notice its getting harder but you think nothing of it and keep going, before you know it you have bound the bolt up in the sleeve and it will not longer turn, naturally you keep applying force and lube/oil, and you eventually get it out. Little did you know if you would have hit it with the impact it would have spun the bolt out fast enough and wiggled/shake the rust at the same time which let it slide out. Same theory here with the spark plugs, only difference is spark plugs are not as strong as a 3/4" bolt! When you break the plug loose say 1/2 turn, while you are doing that you are binding the rust/junk up around that sleeve and the head causing pressure. Now if you stopped just at the right time which was enough before it broke and enough to let pb blaster or PM3 soak in then you may get lucky and they spin out per the TSB. I say you leave the engine warm(20-30 Min drive) and start to get to the plugs as fast as you can. Stick the socket on and rip them out with a nice 3/8" impact DONT STOP until you know they are out or really close. If you stop you are screwed. The momentum is what keeps the sleeve from binding on the head, which causes it to break. Just work through each one and spin them out. Also I just added the antiseeze to the threads, not the sleeve. It will just burn off if its on the sleeve. Also I recommend running 2-3 tanks of fuel with a good fuel system cleaner in each tank. That helps burn off all the carbon. Maybe even run 93 in those tanks too! |
Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 440)
My theory on the whole deal...
Have you ever tried to turn a rusty bolt out of a spring shackle? They have those really nice metal sleeves that rust to the bolt. Well you initially start to turn that and you think all is well. Its loose etc. You continue to turn it and you notice its getting harder but you think nothing of it and keep going, before you know it you have bound the bolt up in the sleeve and it will not longer turn, naturally you keep applying force and lube/oil, and you eventually get it out. Little did you know if you would have hit it with the impact it would have spun the bolt out fast enough and wiggled/shake the rust at the same time which let it slide out. Same theory here with the spark plugs, only difference is spark plugs are not as strong as a 3/4" bolt! When you break the plug loose say 1/2 turn, while you are doing that you are binding the rust/junk up around that sleeve and the head causing pressure. Now if you stopped just at the right time which was enough before it broke and enough to let pb blaster or PM3 soak in then you may get lucky and they spin out per the TSB. I say you leave the engine warm(20-30 Min drive) and start to get to the plugs as fast as you can. Stick the socket on and rip them out with a nice 3/8" impact DONT STOP until you know they are out or really close. If you stop you are screwed. The momentum is what keeps the sleeve from binding on the head, which causes it to break. Just work through each one and spin them out. Also I just added the antiseeze to the threads, not the sleeve. It will just burn off if its on the sleeve. Also I recommend running 2-3 tanks of fuel with a good fuel system cleaner in each tank. That helps burn off all the carbon. Maybe even run 93 in those tanks too! The only part I disagree with is with the anti-seize. In the video link posted by Dan, it shows putting Nickel anti-seize on the GND shield. Check out this link, Nickel anti-seize is good for 2400F, which shouldn't burn off: http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm |
Technically none broke.....ALL of the nuts separated from the plug and left the shields and porcelain intacked!
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Originally Posted by Beytill
(Post 443)
Technically none broke.....ALL of the nuts separated from the plug and left the shields and porcelain intacked!
blow out of the head? |
Originally Posted by Beytill
(Post 443)
Technically none broke.....ALL of the nuts separated from the plug and left the shields and porcelain intacked!
Small world man Hey Bob, I did the same exact thing that Zach and Bucky did, no lube, just warm engine and straight out with a 3/8 impact. Worked perfect for the first 3 on the passenger side and then the first 2 on the drivers side broke. Maybe the engine had cooled down to much? Idk but it is what it is. I'll find out soon if the guy that is fixing mine broke any when he followed the TSB, I know he was soaking them. |
Originally Posted by Takeda
(Post 447)
That's interesting Robin! I'm wondering if you could use plug wires between the coil, and plug, start the engine, and the shields will
blow out of the head? |
What a pain. There has to be a trick to it though. Do all late model F-150's use a two-piece plug? Or, did they get smart and change it?
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I think the actual head was redesigned in 07 which fixed the issue from happening. I'm not sure if the plug itself was changed though.
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Originally Posted by Takeda
(Post 442)
Interesting theory Zach!
The only part I disagree with is with the anti-seize. In the video link posted by Dan, it shows putting Nickel anti-seize on the GND shield. Check out this link, Nickel anti-seize is good for 2400F, which shouldn't burn off: http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm |
Originally Posted by Trent
(Post 487)
I think the actual head was redesigned in 07 which fixed the issue from happening. I'm not sure if the plug itself was changed though.
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Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 488)
I wasnt aware it was good for that many degrees... Does the properties of it change though when it is warmed up?
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Originally Posted by Takeda
(Post 494)
I heard they went to a conventional plug in late '07.
You do know that champion makes a single piece plug for 04-07 right? |
Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 502)
I'm not so sure about that bob. I know they changed the design but I thought it was still a plug with a long shield.
You do know that champion makes a single piece plug for 04-07 right? 2005 F-150 5.4L: http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/photos/...3_f2gvY-X3.jpg 2008 F-150 5.4L: http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/photos/...9_URYv7-X3.jpg |
Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 502)
I'm not so sure about that bob. I know they changed the design but I thought it was still a plug with a long shield.
You do know that champion makes a single piece plug for 04-07 right? Zach, you are correct, Champion is capitalizing on the 5.4L plug breakage problem, here is a video: However, I have a pet peeve, I DO NOT use Champion plugs in ANYTHING! I did find some new news: I have heard that Ford dealers have been using a Seafoam treatment, and letting it set overnight before removing the plugs, and have good results. |
Originally Posted by Takeda
(Post 506)
Zach, you are correct, Champion is capitalizing on the 5.4L plug breakage problem, here is a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoSh9O3XOho However, I have a pet peeve, I DO NOT use Champion plugs in ANYTHING! I did find some new news: I have heard that Ford dealers have been using a Seafoam treatment, and letting it set overnight before removing the plugs, and have good results. |
I did find that there is a class action law suit against Ford for the 5.4L spark plug problem:
http://www.sfmslaw.com/class-action-...ses.php?id=996 |
Originally Posted by Takeda
(Post 511)
I did find that there is a class action law suit against Ford for the 5.4L spark plug problem:
http://www.sfmslaw.com/class-action-...ses.php?id=996 |
Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 813)
thats silly. all vehicles have their hickups.
Ford had problems with the pre 2004 5.4s blowing the spark plugs out of the heads, they fixed the problem so they'd never come out and people still complain. Can't win lol! :dunno: |
Originally Posted by RazorsEDGE
(Post 817)
Agree 100%
Ford had problems with the pre 2004 5.4s blowing the spark plugs out of the heads, they fixed the problem so they'd never come out and people still complain. Can't win lol! :dunno: |
Part of owning a any vehicle. All of them have some task that is expensive. Try owning a Superduty, once you own one of those fixing/changing 8 spark plugs on a F150 is dirt cheap.
I do agree that they should have fixed it sooner but they didnt need to. If Ford controlled the dealers 100% then I agree to the lawsuit a bit. But every dealer seems to be different and handle everything differently. Doesnt make sense. |
Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 828)
Part of owning a any vehicle. All of them have some task that is expensive. Try owning a Superduty, once you own one of those fixing/changing 8 spark plugs on a F150 is dirt cheap.
I do agree that they should have fixed it sooner but they didnt need to. If Ford controlled the dealers 100% then I agree to the lawsuit a bit. But every dealer seems to be different and handle everything differently. Doesnt make sense. which doesn't have the weld. |
I think your right on that Bob. Out of the 6 plus I removed, 3 broke and 2 of them the nut came loose and the actual plug didn't break. Only one the plug came out broken.
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The nightmare continues...
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I bought our F150 with the idea that it would last many years with proper care and maintanice ,But this spark plug issue has gave me some grave concerns ,Our 150 has 60 k on it and this is the first time that I have heard about the sparks plugs needing changed at 60k ,If I remenber correctly I was told 100k when we bought it ,,,,,Robert
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they have said 100k on spark plugs on any car for some time now. I just hate to think what it is like removing spark plugs with 100k on them. Change them soon and often. Its cheap insurance. Well it used to be cheap. lol
Dont worry about that much. If its running great why worry? |
Originally Posted by zabeard
(Post 1119)
they have said 100k on spark plugs on any car for some time now. I just hate to think what it is like removing spark plugs with 100k on them. Change them soon and often. Its cheap insurance. Well it used to be cheap. lol
Dont worry about that much. If its running great why worry? I think you answered your question Zach: I just hate to think what it is like removing spark plugs with 100k on them. |
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