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5.4L Spark Plugs Seizing Problems

Old 01-16-2011
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Originally Posted by bucky919 View Post
I changed mine at 70k, pull it in warm and hit them with the 3/8 impact, didn't break any.
ditto. id do it again too. boy wish I could charge 400 to remove plugs when its an hour job.
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Old 01-16-2011
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Originally Posted by Beytill View Post
Here is the TSB on the plugs.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jm...sb08-07-06.pdf


I went to change mine, following the TSB, and thought I was going to be one of the lucky ones. Yeah right.....not. All 8 broke. I bought the removal tool(Lisle, it`s better than the Snap-on or the rest and costs less) but was soo pissed I justed towwed it up to Zimmernens in ST.Charles,IL. The mannager is a good friend. Still cost me $650 and I had already bought the plugs.

This was at 65K miles and there is a lawsuit pending.
Haha you sound just like me. My first 3 came out great and then I broke 3 in a row so I stopped and had it towed to a friend of my cousins shop.
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Old 01-16-2011
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I could make a small fortune taking advantage of people. Had a 72 Corvette in my shop over summer. He was told he had a blown head gasket, see, it's dripping coolant. Sure, I'll take a look. I found coolant on the lower intake manifold. Not a head gasket. I found all but one bolt holding the LIM down was so loose I could turn by hand. I torqued them down, leak stopped. Told the guy $20. He was happy as could be, the other shop told him $500.
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Old 01-16-2011
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Haha you sound just like me. My first 3 came out great and then I broke 3 in a row so I stopped and had it towed to a friend of my cousins shop.
Trent, did you follow the TSB about turning them out 1/8 - 1/4 turn and putting penetrating oil on them?


I'm not sure what to do. Trent, you and Robin had bad luck, Robin broke all 8 plugs following the TSB. However, Ramsey and Zach didn't follow the TSB, and didn't break any.

With 75K miles, I do know I have to do something before too many more miles are racked up.
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Old 01-16-2011
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My theory on the whole deal...

Have you ever tried to turn a rusty bolt out of a spring shackle? They have those really nice metal sleeves that rust to the bolt. Well you initially start to turn that and you think all is well. Its loose etc. You continue to turn it and you notice its getting harder but you think nothing of it and keep going, before you know it you have bound the bolt up in the sleeve and it will not longer turn, naturally you keep applying force and lube/oil, and you eventually get it out. Little did you know if you would have hit it with the impact it would have spun the bolt out fast enough and wiggled/shake the rust at the same time which let it slide out.

Same theory here with the spark plugs, only difference is spark plugs are not as strong as a 3/4" bolt!

When you break the plug loose say 1/2 turn, while you are doing that you are binding the rust/junk up around that sleeve and the head causing pressure. Now if you stopped just at the right time which was enough before it broke and enough to let pb blaster or PM3 soak in then you may get lucky and they spin out per the TSB.

I say you leave the engine warm(20-30 Min drive) and start to get to the plugs as fast as you can. Stick the socket on and rip them out with a nice 3/8" impact DONT STOP until you know they are out or really close. If you stop you are screwed. The momentum is what keeps the sleeve from binding on the head, which causes it to break. Just work through each one and spin them out.

Also I just added the antiseeze to the threads, not the sleeve. It will just burn off if its on the sleeve.

Also I recommend running 2-3 tanks of fuel with a good fuel system cleaner in each tank. That helps burn off all the carbon. Maybe even run 93 in those tanks too!
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Old 01-16-2011
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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
My theory on the whole deal...

Have you ever tried to turn a rusty bolt out of a spring shackle? They have those really nice metal sleeves that rust to the bolt. Well you initially start to turn that and you think all is well. Its loose etc. You continue to turn it and you notice its getting harder but you think nothing of it and keep going, before you know it you have bound the bolt up in the sleeve and it will not longer turn, naturally you keep applying force and lube/oil, and you eventually get it out. Little did you know if you would have hit it with the impact it would have spun the bolt out fast enough and wiggled/shake the rust at the same time which let it slide out.

Same theory here with the spark plugs, only difference is spark plugs are not as strong as a 3/4" bolt!

When you break the plug loose say 1/2 turn, while you are doing that you are binding the rust/junk up around that sleeve and the head causing pressure. Now if you stopped just at the right time which was enough before it broke and enough to let pb blaster or PM3 soak in then you may get lucky and they spin out per the TSB.

I say you leave the engine warm(20-30 Min drive) and start to get to the plugs as fast as you can. Stick the socket on and rip them out with a nice 3/8" impact DONT STOP until you know they are out or really close. If you stop you are screwed. The momentum is what keeps the sleeve from binding on the head, which causes it to break. Just work through each one and spin them out.

Also I just added the antiseeze to the threads, not the sleeve. It will just burn off if its on the sleeve.

Also I recommend running 2-3 tanks of fuel with a good fuel system cleaner in each tank. That helps burn off all the carbon. Maybe even run 93 in those tanks too!
Interesting theory Zach!

The only part I disagree with is with the anti-seize. In the video link posted by Dan, it shows putting Nickel anti-seize on the GND shield.
Check out this link, Nickel anti-seize is good for 2400F, which shouldn't burn off:

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm
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Old 01-16-2011
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Technically none broke.....ALL of the nuts separated from the plug and left the shields and porcelain intacked!
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Old 01-16-2011
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Originally Posted by Beytill View Post
Technically none broke.....ALL of the nuts separated from the plug and left the shields and porcelain intacked!
That's interesting Robin! I'm wondering if you could use plug wires between the coil, and plug, start the engine, and the shields will
blow out of the head?
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Old 01-16-2011
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Originally Posted by Beytill View Post
Technically none broke.....ALL of the nuts separated from the plug and left the shields and porcelain intacked!
wow!!! your the only other person I have heard that happening too, I had 2 of mine do that and searching online and couldn't find anyone else saying that happened. I thought I had stripped the head which is why I sent the truck off haha.

Small world man

Hey Bob, I did the same exact thing that Zach and Bucky did, no lube, just warm engine and straight out with a 3/8 impact. Worked perfect for the first 3 on the passenger side and then the first 2 on the drivers side broke. Maybe the engine had cooled down to much? Idk but it is what it is.

I'll find out soon if the guy that is fixing mine broke any when he followed the TSB, I know he was soaking them.
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Old 01-16-2011
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Originally Posted by Takeda View Post
That's interesting Robin! I'm wondering if you could use plug wires between the coil, and plug, start the engine, and the shields will
blow out of the head?
I read some guys crank the engine to shoot the porcelain out, they didn't say anything about the shields coming with them. I think if its seized enough in there to break, its not going to come out that easy.
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