1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

99 f150 4.2 v6 help

Old 06-18-2012
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Default 99 f150 4.2 v6 help

I have a 99 f150 4.2 v6. I have been getting the bank 1&2 too lean codes, and was also getting high idle when it was in park. i have replaced the PCV valve, EGR valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, throttle body, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the large vacuum hose going to the evap port. The idle was better, but it began to run as if there was a vacuum leak, stalling in park after a few minutes, or when I dont give it enough gas in reverse. I replaced the bank 2 o2 sensors, and it started running even worse, stalling at take off if i dont practically floor it. Any ideas?
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Old 06-19-2012
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You might have a leak in the vacuum side still. AN easy way to hunt it down is to use carb and choke cleaner when the vehicle is running and spray it near hoses and tubes. If the idle increases where you sprayed, that would be where your leak is at. Don't forget the EGR tube...they can crack.
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Old 06-23-2012
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I did find another leak. it was on the rubber elbow that comes off of the 'Y' coming from the PCV. Replaced it, replaced the air filter, now its even worse it seems fine in park, but when i put it in drive, it rumbles hard and stalls almost immediately. I also noticed that the PCV won't stay completely seated. Almost as if its not getting any air now.
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Old 06-23-2012
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Originally Posted by Marv View Post
I did find another leak. it was on the rubber elbow that comes off of the 'Y' coming from the PCV. Replaced it, replaced the air filter, now its even worse it seems fine in park, but when i put it in drive, it rumbles hard and stalls almost immediately. I also noticed that the PCV won't stay completely seated. Almost as if its not getting any air now.
Now its time for a compression test on each cylinder.
1. Make sure the engine has been warmed up before beginning the test, to insure that the oil has been warmed up. A cold engine will not test correctly.
2. Disable the Ignition Module or Coil.
3. Insert the compression tester into one cylinder spark plug hole at a time.
4. Hold the throttle to full open position to ensure the engine gets adequate air intake.
5. Crank the engine continually for at least five to ten full revolutions to obtain an accurate reading on the compression tester.
6. Record the reading for each cylinder. If any of them vary 10% or more from each other a problem may exist in one or more cylinders. If the variance is greater than 10%, specialized testing equipment may be required to fully diagnose the problem.
7. If all cylinder readings are within 10% of each other, no further testing is required and compression is considered optimal.
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